3/9/2007

A Votre Sante

A votre sante in French is the way you propose a toast.  It means to your health.  When you toast someone you probably think of champagne as the proper drink.  What if you loved champagne enough to take it out of its normal realm and create a new paradigm.  That is exactly what Christian Borden, the chef, did recently at a champagne dinner at Atlas Global Bistrot in Detroit.  He put together a six course dinner matched with six different champagnes from the French house Veuve Cliquot.  As he said during the dinner, most people view champagne as something to begin or end a dinner but not served with every course.  He changed a few minds with this lineup:


Course 1-The champagne was a non vintage, meaning it is blended from several years of wine like a blended scotch whisky. It had a sweet citrusy aroma and fine acidity which cut through the buttery richness of the foie gras and strawberry compote on a little brioche. There was also a ahi tuna tartare, sweet with ginger and fresh cilantro and crunchy sesame seeds. The third amuse-bouche was a beef carpaccio (raw) with lemon zest. The citrus complimented the citrusy champagne.

Course 2-The champagne was a non-vintage rose,  It was drier than the first wine with aromas of sour cherry and raspberry. It had a more mineral-like taste. The dish was a lobstertail on a skewer with a walnut crust in a bath of red pepper coulis. It was an amazing balance of crunchy nuts, chewy lobster and smooth puree. The sweetness of the wine accented the coulis while its' dryness went well with the nutty crust.

Course 3-The champagne was a vintage 1995 with an aroma of pear and cantaloupe, mild with refined acidity due to the age. It was matched with mild flavored frog legs in an herb puree. The delicate flavors mingled exceptionally well.

Intermezzo-We got to stretch our legs and our tongues with a little interlude. It was a sorbet with carmelized ginger and crunchy peppery black tobiko caviar.

Course 4-Now we were into the heavy hitting champagnes. This one was a vintage rose reserve 1999. The aroma was a combination of freshly picked red apples and parmigiano reggiano cheese. The dish was an atlantic snapper with citrus fruit. The fish was savory while the citrus was sweet. The citrus lingered on the palate and so did the champagne with a finish that went on and on.

Course 5-This was the show. Veuve Cliquot la Grande Dame 1996. There are vintages announced for this wine only once a decade when the conditions are perfect. It had an aroma of vanilla, with notes of cinnamon, cloves and allspice. It reminded me also of yellow raisins. We had veal medallions with preserved lemons and pinenuts. The whole thing worked because it has all the elements of moroccan cooking with the lemons, the spices, the pine nuts. The wine finished very creamy and rich just like the veal.

Course 6-Demi-sec champagne, meaning sweeter than the others with flavors of hazelnut, vanilla, cinnamon. The dessert was a two fruit italian bread pudding. The sauce was full of hazelnut, caramel and vanilla flavors. I wanted to lick the plate.

Now what if we were to propose a similar coffee paradigm.

Course 1-Ethiopia Yirgacheffe with its' citrus flavors to compliment the carpaccio and its bracing acidity to cut through the foie gras.

Course 2-Kenya AA has a sweet richness that parallels the lobster and sauce and an acidity which would hold up against the nut crust.

Course 3-Kona Extra Fancy with its' mild flavor and low acidity would round out the frog legs and cause a Frenchman to cry, encore du grenouille et du cafe.

Intermezzo-Maybe I would drink some water, or just do a shot of espresso at the bar.

Course 4-Ethiopia Harrar with its full body to marry with the rich fish and its citrus fruit notes to go with the grapefruit and orange.

Course 5-4 Corners Blend with its incredible aroma sweet and spicy, full body and smooth rich finish would be a great match for the veal with preserved lemons.

Course 6-Hydro Espresso has a cinnamon aroma, sweet currant and raisin flavors and finishes with chocolate and hazelnuts very similar to the sauce which accompanied the italian bread pudding. 

Could this type of tasting menu be done.  It will be done.  All it takes is someone with vision like Christian.  I have this vision for coffee.   Strangely enough USA Today ran an article recently extolling such coffee possibilities. Here is the link:  http://www.usatoday.com/travel/destinations/2007-02-15-high-end-coffee_x.htm

Grab a flute of champagne or a cup of coffee, read the article and dream of the possibilities.  A votre sante.

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